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Exploring
Singapore and Malaysia
By Sandra Scott
In
the late 90s upon arrival at Singapore’s award-winning Changi Airport,
I was impressed to see an information kiosk where transiting passengers
were signing up for free city tours. Then I saw a sign pointing to the
airport swimming pool and stopped to admire the orchid garden. I continue
to be impressed with the Malay Peninsula, which extends from Singapore
almost to Bangkok. The area is home to fascinating cities, international
class beaches, and raw nature plus it is easy to navigate from one place
to another. Accommodations and transportation run the gamut from budget
to luxury.
On
my most recent visit I found Singapore just as impressive as I did the
first time. Everything is slick and tourist friendly. I revisited Sentosa
Island, which was much fought over during World War II. The Fort Siloso
museum depicts the Japanese conquest and loss of Singapore. Sentosa means
“peace” in Malay, which is better than the former name, which
meant “death from behind.” Today it is an island resort with
beaches, golf courses, hotels, amusement rides, nature trails, a variety
of other attractions; and, in 2010, Resort World, featuring Universal
Studios, will open. One of my favorite Sentosa attractions is the Images
of Singapore that is a walk through the very soul of Singapore with dioramas
depicting the cultural diversity that is the heart of Singapore.
I
never miss the chance to take a tour of the city’s ethnic neighborhoods
with Singapore Walks. This time I took the “Red Clogs Down the Five-foot
Way” tour of Chinatown with beautifully restored shop houses. Each
step was another step toward a better understanding of the culture and
influence of the Chinese in Singapore. On an earlier trip I toured Little
India with their Dhobis, Saris, and Spot of Curry walk. A trading crossroads
for centuries, the entire Malay Peninsula shows the influence of many
cultures.
Singapore’s
star attraction is Night Safari, a nocturnal zoo tour with a 45-minute
trolley ride accompanied by a live commentary through landscapes that
recreate the Himalayan Foothills, the Nepalese River Valley, and other
habitats. The newest addition to the Singapore experience is the Singapore
Flyer, currently the world's largest observation wheel with impressive
panoramic views. Standing at a stunning 541 feet from the ground each
of the 28 capsules holds 28 people and each revolution takes 28 minutes
– an auspicious number in Chinese culture.
One
of my favorite ways to experience a culture is by taking a cooking lesson.
I learned to cook Malay food at Palate Sensations. While preparing Singapore
chili, Chef Alfie explained, “I put the live crabs in the freezer
so they go to sleep before they have to be killed.” While making
vegetables cooked in coconut gravy, he went on to say, “This vegetable
dish is always served for breakfast the first day after Ramadan, our month
of fasting.”
Getting
to Melaka, Malaysia, only four hours from Singapore, is simple and inexpensive
by bus. UNESCO declared the colonial city of Melaka a World Heritage site
in 2008. The city began as a Malay sultanate but in the early 16th century
the Portuguese and Dutch arrived adding their influence. The center of
the historic district is Dutch Square with the eye-catching brick-red
buildings anchored by the iconic Christ Church. The area is easy to explore
on foot or by a brightly decorated trishaw. There is a revolving sky tower,
a riverboat ride, a fort, and museums dealing with all phases of Melaka’s
history. I’ve been to a plethora of museums but none called The
Museum of Enduring Beauty. On display are images of the ways people around
the world have beautified their bodies. The objective of the museum is
to help people realize that different cultures do things differently.
To some lip plugs or tattoos or neck rings are signs of beauty. Beauty
is in the eye of the beholder.
I
stayed at the new Holiday Inn located on the water and walking distance
to the historic district. After my yummy cooking experience at Palate
Sensations in Singapore I could not pass up the opportunity to take a
cooking lesson offered by the hotel. Chef Toney, while preparing Ayam
Pongteh, a chicken dish, related, “This is a Nonya dish. Nonya means
grandmother, and every grandmother prepares this dish during Chinese New
Year.” I also helped make Chicken Capitan, which is of Portuguese
influence.
Kuala
Lumpur, the capital of Malaysia, is only four hours from Melaka by bus.
It, too, reflects the influence of the many groups with mosques, Hindu
temples, and British colonial buildings, but it is the cities shining
icon, the Petronas Towers, the tallest twin towers, that best reflect
the country’s leap into the future. After another four-hour jaunt
I took a giant step into the past. A long sleek boat took me to Taman
Negara, a national park that preserves one of the world’s oldest
rainforest. Not being of the backpacker ilk, I stayed in an air-conditioned
cabin but took many hikes through the jungle. One of the highlights was
walking a heart stopping 120 feet above the forest floor on the world’s
longest canopy walk – over 1500 feet long. Most memorable was visiting
a Batak village. The shy people are the first known human occupants of
the Malay Peninsula and continue to live a nomadic, hunter-gather lifestyle.
Into the mix of historic cities, nature and cultural experiences toss
in the world-class beaches and there is truly something to impress everyone.
Between Georgetown, another Malaysian historic city; and Bangkok, the
capital of Thailand; there are a plethora of beaches that include the
world-famous Penang in Malaysia and Patong in Thailand, all easily accessed
by bus, train, or plane. No matter how many times I visit the Malay Peninsula,
I am never at a loss of impressive things to see and do.
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